Antica Pizzeria

Another easy-to-miss foodie find, Antica Pizzeria (13455 Maxella Ave.), which occupies a second-floor corner of a Marina del Rey mall, claims the distinction of certification by the Associazone Vera Pizza Napoletana, a trade group devoted to preserving traditional Neapolitan pizza making. Though of course pizza is this restaurant’s raison d’être, it offers a full menu, with antipasti, soups, salads, and pastas. We started our meal with the very nice insalata mediterranea, featuring mixed greens, black olives, tomato, and goat cheese in a balsamic vinaigrette. For our pizza, we went with the classic, thoroughly authentic margherita D.O.C. (for “denomination of control”), not to be confused with the unmarked, less stringently governed margherita, also on the menu. At its best, the DOC is a lovely-to-behold speckled thin-crust pie topped with a deliciously acidic San Marzano tomato sauce, patches of dense fresh buffalo mozzarella, and basil leaves. Each pie is enough for one hungry person, but we started by ordering just one, which, we were sad to find, was burned on the bottom. Ordering a second pie, we said, “Please make sure this one isn’t burned,” and, sure enough, the next pie was just right, a pizza dream, with its thin but chewy crust and scrumptious toppings. As for our dessert, the coppa profitterol, all we can say is “non l’abbiamo neanche visto” (“We did not even see it”). This cup of vanilla cream-filled pastry balls covered with a dark chocolate custard and whipped cream disappeared in what seemed like seconds. Our final assessment: With the right choices and instructions, one can have a very memorable experience at Antica Pizzeria, though a misstep might lead to disappointment.

Update (August 5): Antica Pizzeria has closed down. Though thin-crust pizza is not hard to find in L.A., this restaurant offered something special, and we are sad to see it go.

Da Pasquale

Miracle of melanzana: Penne alla siciliana

Crisp and delicate: Pizza vegetariana

Cannellini zone: Insalata di fagioli bianchi

Extraordinary: Pasquale’s bread

Last night we returned to one of our favorite eateries, Da Pasquale (9749 Little Santa Monica Blvd.), a Beverly Hills trattoria specializing in Neapolitan cuisine. Run by a husband-and-wife team, the restaurant prides itself on the authenticity of its food, offering none of the Americanisms (Parmesan on seafood, chicken on pizza, alfredo sauce) that stir indignation among purists. Because of the southern orientation, a vegetarian can do quite well here. The daily soup is typically bean-based and vegan, a hearty lentil, chickpea, or cannellini preparation bolstered with pasta (the native Italian half of our duo insists the soups are just the way his grandmother from the south used to make them), and the menu offers many other inviting options. There is, for example, a delicious, not-too-heavy vegetarian lasagna with eggplant, spinach, ricotta, béchamel, tomato sauce, and Parmesan, as well as a variety of crisp, delicate pizzas (start with the classic margherita or the vegetariana). Our meal last night began with the cannellini soup and the insalata di fagioli bianchi (cannellini beans, again, marinated in olive oil, garlic, and lemon and served on a bed of arugula with toasted bread). For our entrée, we both chose penne alla siciliana, in which Anna, the indomitable chef, virtually melts eggplant into an incredible tomato sauce with just a little mozzarella (we needed a double portion, since this dish is too good to share). For dessert, we went with another irresistible favorite, coppa amaretto, an unbelievably creamy cup of mascarpone flavored with an almond cookie soaked in amaretto di saronno (an almond liqueur). We would be truly negligent if we failed to mention Pasquale’s extraordinary bread, a puffy circle with a toasty crunch on the outside and a moist, chewy inside, always served hot from the oven and perfect for dipping in extra-virgin olive oil. Don’t let the Beverly Hills address fool you. Da Pasquale has both great food and a casual warmth all but guaranteed to leave you with a smile.