Sor Tino

Since Pecorino was closed for the Fourth of July, we decided to try Sor Tino (908 Barrington Ave., at San Vicente), located in the same stretch of Brentwood. For our appetizers, we and our guest chose bietole e caprino, a pleasant combination of sweet, earthy red and yellow beets, candied walnuts, greens, and goat cheese in a light dressing; polenta grigliata e porcini, a crisp, golden, slightly unctuous square of the grilled cornmeal porridge topped with the gelatinous but coveted mushrooms, in this case sautéed and peppery; and frisée with slivered fava beans, bits of artichoke heart, goat cheese, and sweet cherry tomatoes, all in a subtly lemony, barely-there dressing, which could have used a bit more punch. For our entrées, two of us were grabbed by tagliatelle carciofi, a simple but appealing preparation of the egg pasta with slivers and chunks of lemony artichoke in a light white sauce of olive oil, Parmesan, and butter. The third member of our party ordered risotto funghi, which he found to be an adequate rendition of the classic rice dish, perhaps a tad mushy, but subtly flavorful and not too cheesy, with the right amount of porcini mushrooms. As usual (at least in Italian restaurants), we loved the dessert, a tender-crusted tart filled with a ground-up mixture of chocolate and hazelnuts plated with hazelnut gelato, raspberries, lovely slices of strawberry, and mint leaves, which were not just a decoration but a wonderful accompaniment. Overall, Sor Tino offers solid, though unremarkable food with friendly, helpful service in an attractive environment. If given a choice, we would have opted for Pecorino (see June 11 review), but, in a pinch, Sor Tino served nicely.

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